Family-owned · EPA 608 Certified · Insured

Washer Repair in Sacramento, CA

Front-load, top-load and stacked washers repaired by an EPA 608 Certified technician. Same-day appointments are often available.

Call (279) 225-1050 Book online

$99 diagnostic, waived with repair
Family-owned & operated
EPA 608 Certified · Insured
Parts and labor warranty up to 90 days
Reviewed on Google

What customers say on GoogleRead all reviews →

★★★★★
“The people from Expert repair were here for an emergency repair within 40 min. He was knowledgeable, confident in his analysis, and reasonably priced.”
Darlene F. · Google review
★★★★★
“Excellent service! He repaired my refrigerator quickly and professionally. Arrived on time, explained the issue clearly, and everything works perfectly now. Very honest pricing and great communication.”
Kolya T. · Google review
★★★★★
“When the original company told me next week on Tuesday, this company came same day…”
Perry · Google review

Quick answer: A washer that will not drain usually has a pump filter clogged with socks, coins or hair ties, or a drain pump that has failed. One that will not spin often has a bad lid or door lock; one that will not fill has clogged inlet valve screens. Expert Repair Company: $99 diagnostic, waived with repair, parts and labor warranty up to 90 days, (279) 225-1050.

Expert Repair Company repairs top-load, front-load and stacked washers across the Sacramento area from our base in Citrus Heights, CA. A washer full of standing water stops the whole house, so call (279) 225-1050 with the brand and the symptom, Monday through Friday, 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM.

Washer problems we repair

The parts that fail on washers are the drain pump, the lid lock or door lock, the water inlet valve, the drive belt or motor coupler, the suspension and the control board. Here is how each one shows up.

Washer won’t drain or spin. The drain pump is jammed with a sock, a coin or a hair tie, or the pump motor has burned out. On top-loaders a failed lid lock also stops the spin, because the machine refuses to run at speed with the lid unlocked. Our walkthrough on a washer that won’t drain shows how to check the filter yourself first.

Loud banging on spin. Worn suspension rods or dampers on top-loaders, a failed shock absorber on front-loaders, or an unbalanced load on a machine sitting on an uneven garage floor.

Fills but never agitates or tumbles. A broken motor coupler on older Whirlpool and Kenmore direct-drive machines, a snapped drive belt, or a failed motor control board on newer LG and Samsung models.

Leaking from the front. A torn door boot gasket on a front-loader, often from a zipper or a coin trapped in the fold. From the back, it is usually the inlet hoses or the valve itself.

Will not fill, or fills slowly. Inlet valve screens packed with sediment, or a failed valve solenoid.

Door locked with an error code. A door lock assembly that will not release, a drain fault, or a control board that has logged a motor error.

Grinding or roaring during spin. Failed tub bearings. On an older front-loader this is the repair we most often advise against.

Bearing puller on an LG washer drum during bearing removal — Worn tub bearings from an LG front-load washer: the roar on spin that tells you the bearings are going

Technician holding the water inlet valve removed from a washer — A washer water inlet valve, removed for replacement

Washer error codes, explained

LG OE. A drain error: the pump filter is clogged or the pump is not running.
LG UE. The load is unbalanced; repeated UE on small loads points to worn suspension.
LG LE. The motor is locked or overloaded, from an overloaded drum or a motor fault.
LG dE. The door is not reported as closed and locked.
Samsung 5C, SC or nd. A drain error on many Samsung models, again usually the filter or the pump.
Samsung 4C. The washer is not getting water: check the taps and hoses, then the inlet valve.
Whirlpool F9 E1. A long drain time on front-load models.

Front-load washer odor and mold

A front-loader that smells of mildew is holding water in the door boot and the drain path. Leave the door open between loads, wipe the gasket fold, use the cleaning cycle monthly, and use high-efficiency detergent in the amount the manual calls for. If the smell returns quickly, a partly clogged pump filter is often holding dirty water in the machine.

Should I repair my washer or replace it?

A drain pump, lid lock, inlet valve, belt or door boot on a washer under 8 to 10 years old is usually worth doing. Tub bearings or a broken spider arm on a front-loader past 10 years often are not, because the labor is heavy and the tub is the machine. Speed Queen is the exception: those machines are built to be rebuilt. Our washer and dryer repair cost guide lists typical ranges by part.

Call (279) 225-1050

What washer repair costs

The diagnostic visit is $99, or $85 when you book online, and it is waived when you approve the repair. Checking the dryer on the same visit adds $25. There is no travel fee, and every washer repair carries a parts and labor warranty of up to 90 days.

Washer brands we repair

Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, GE, Samsung, LG, Frigidaire, Electrolux, Bosch and Speed Queen, top-load and front-load, plus stacked and laundry-center units. See all the brands we repair.

Where we repair washers

We repair washers across the Sacramento area, including Citrus Heights, Roseville, Folsom, Orangevale, Fair Oaks, Carmichael, Rancho Cordova, Antelope, North Highlands, Rocklin and Sacramento. If the dryer is the problem, see our dryer repair page.

Front-load washer showing an error code
Washer water inlet valve replacement
Top-load washer repair
LG front-load washer, bearing removal
Electrolux washer repair
Stackable washer and dryer repair

Call (279) 225-1050

$99diagnostic visit

Waived when you approve the repair

You get the repair price before any part goes in. Say yes and the $99 disappears from the bill. Say no and $99 is all you owe. A second appliance checked on the same visit is $25. No travel fees anywhere in our service area. Book through the website and the diagnostic is $85. Every repair carries a parts and labor warranty up to 90 days.

Typical repair prices: washer & dryer repair cost guide →

Before you call: washer troubleshooting guides

Written by the technician who will show up. Read the one that matches your symptom, then call.

Frequently asked questions

Why won't my washer drain all the way?

A partly blocked drain pump or filter is the most common reason. Coins, hair ties and socks collect in the pump housing and let some water through but not all of it. A weak pump motor, a kinked drain hose or a standpipe set too low can also leave water behind.

Is it worth repairing a 10-year-old washing machine?

For a pump, valve, lid lock, belt or door boot, usually yes. For tub bearings or a spider arm on a front-loader, usually no, because the labor is heavy and the machine is near the end of its life. Speed Queen and older direct-drive Whirlpool and Kenmore models are worth repairing longer than most.

My front-loader is locked with water inside. What do I do?

Do not force the door. Turn the washer off, then drain it through the small filter door at the bottom front, with towels and a shallow pan ready. Once the water is out, the lock usually releases. If it still will not drain or unlock, the pump or the lock has failed.

Can you repair stacked washer and dryer units?

Yes. Stacked and laundry-center units from Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire, LG and Bosch are common in townhomes and condos. Access is tighter, so mention that it is a stacked unit when you book.

How much does washer repair cost?

The diagnostic is $99, waived when you approve the repair. Pumps, valves and lid locks sit at the low end; bearings and control boards at the high end. You get the price before any work starts.